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References:
For a good summary of
research to that date and an overview of the issues raised see: Picton,J.
"Tradition,Technology, and Lurex; Some Comments on Textile History
and Design in West Africa" in History, design and Craft in West
African Strip-Woven Cloth (Smithsonian 1988). Last time I checked
they were giving this important book away free at the National Museum of
African Art website.
History references:
Bolland, R. Tellem
Textiles (1991)
Loom type references:
The key sources here
are the work of Venice Lamb published in:
West African Weaving
(1975)
Nigerian Weaving
(1980)
Au Cameroun:
Weaving-Tissage (1981)
Sierra Leone Weaving
(1984)
Looms Past and
Present (2005)
plus the article:
"The Classification and Distribution of Horizontal Treadle Looms in
Sub-Saharan Africa" in Idiens, D. & Ponting K.G. Textiles of
Africa (1980)
Also important:
Loir H. Le Tissage du
Raphia au Congo Belge (1935)
Ling Roth, H. Studies
in Primitive Looms (1916-18)
Picton J. & Mack J.
African Textiles (1989, 2nd Edition)
Schaedler K. Weaving
in Sub-Saharan Africa (1987) - great for archive photographs

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Weaving,
at its simplest, involves the regular interlacing of two sets of
threads to create a textile. A loom is basically any kind of
frame that facilitates this interlacing process. One set of
threads (known as the warp) is fixed to the frame, while
the second set (the weft) is manipulated in between one
or more warps in an under/over fashion. Almost all looms have
some means of separating alternate warps to speed up this
interlacing process. Generally this involves string loops placed
round every other warp, allowing the two groups to be pulled
apart, creating a gap (called the shed) through which the
weft is passed. This set of string loops is called a heddle.
Looms where only one set of alternate warps are leashed to a
heddle are called single-heddle looms. Looms where both
sets are leashed to separate heddles are called double-heddle
looms. In an influential book John Picton and John Mack have
argued that the clearest method of classifying the many
different types of loom found in Africa is to focus on this
fundamental distinction in the weaving process itself, rather
than looking at essentially peripheral features such as the
position of the frame, the width of the cloth woven, or the
gender of the weaver. See Picton & Mack African Textiles (1979.)
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Asante
double-heddle narrow strip loom weavers in the
royal weavers village of Bonwire near the Asante
capital of Kumasi. June 1997.
photo (c)
Duncan Clarke
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Hand
loom weaving has been carried on in Africa since ancient
times, although in most of the continent in the unfavourable
climactic conditions mean that very few textiles of any
antiquity have been preserved. The earliest African looms of
which any knowledge survives are those recorded in the wall
paintings of ancient Egyptian tombs. For sub-Saharan Africa
the picture is less clear. Although some scholars have proposed a
variety of external sources for the main loom types only the
Arabian origin of the East African pit loom is securely
established. The two other main forms of loom in wide use
are the narrow-strip loom (a type of double-heddle loom) and
vertically mounted single-heddle looms, both of which may
well been local African inventions. The earliest known
cloths associated with the double-heddle loom are the large
number of textile fragments dating back to the eleventh
century AD found in burial caves along the Bandiagara cliffs
in the area of Mali inhabited today by the Dogon. The great
Arab traveller al-Bakri described seeing what would appear
to be a double-heddle narrow-strip loom in operation in the
Mauretanian town of Silla in AD 1068. For the single-heddle
loom there are tiny fragments excavated with the treasury of
intricate brasswork dated to the ninth century AD found at
Igbo Ukwu in Southeastern Nigeria.
Whatever
its origins it is clear that the distribution of the skills
of weaving on the narrow-strip loom, along with the
tailoring and embroidery of men's robes, owes a lot to the
long distance traders that criss-crossed West Africa dealing
in a huge range of goods, both locally produced and imported
from across the Sahara. Most of these traders were Muslims,
and the demand for appropriate and prestigious Islamic
attire certainly helped to promote the spread of textile
technologies. In some areas the majority of weavers are
themselves Muslims, although this is by no means always the
case. Until very recently almost all double-heddle loom
weaving was done by men, but now, particularly among the
Yoruba in Nigeria, it is being taken up by large numbers of
young women. Although there are innumerable variations in such features
as the seating posture of the weaver, the use or other wise of a
wooden frame, the shape of the heddle etc, an essentially
similar loom, known as the narrow-strip treadle loom, is found
across almost all of West African from Senegal to Lake Chad and
the border areas of Cameroon. The key features of this loom are
the use of a weighted drag-sled to tension the warp, a pair of
suspended heddles operated by simple foot pedals, and the
weaving of a single long, usually rather narrow strip of cloth,
which is then cut up and sewn together edge to edge to create
the finished fabric. The other, less widely distributed,
double-heddle looms are: Middle Eastern looms used by urban Arab
weavers in North Africa, the pit treadle loom used in Ethiopia
and Somalia, frame looms of European colonial or missionary
origin, and various hybrid tripod and tetrapod looms found in
parts of Sierra Leone and Liberia
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A
tripod loom in use, Mende or Vai people, Sierra Leone.
Early C20th postcard |
(c)
Duncan Clarke 2003
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